Alessandro Sartori and the Craft of Subtlety

Alessandro Sartori, the artistic director of Zegna, exemplifies a subtle elegance in his demeanor, entrance, and his ongoing ability to generate enthusiasm for the Italian menswear company.

Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori.

Alessandro Sartori is an enthusiast of Formula One racing. He must be—he has been attending the Singapore Grand Prix since 2018, observing the race from the summit of The Fullerton Hotel while Zegna hosts an exclusive trunk show and party throughout the race weekend. It has evolved into a Zegna tradition, with brand associates transported from throughout the region to indulge in the ambiance each year. Mannequins adorned in Zegna and clothing racks are arranged throughout the suite, however there is no aggressive salesmanship—at least not during the finals evening.

I doubt Sartori holds it in high regard either.

The artistic director of Zegna is indeed concerned in leading a profitable enterprise; he is aware that his clothing designs are commercially successful. Indeed, they do. Zegna Group's preliminary revenues for the first half of 2023 exceeded EUR 900 million, with Zegna-branded products, including Sartori-designed items and licensed products, contributing EUR 541 million, reflecting a 27.3 percent rise compared to the previous year.

All of Sartori's actions indicate that the year-end financials are expected to be as favorable.

A Zegna trunk exhibition and celebration have consistently been featured over the Singapore Grand Prix weekend.

The recent trunk exhibition in Singapore showcased Zegna’s traceable Oasi Cashmere collection and marked its inaugural cooperation with Los Angeles-based brand The Elder Statesman. “It was highly natural.” We did not consider collaboration. laughter I encountered Greg Chait of The Elder Statesman via mutual acquaintances. I admired his collection due to my appreciation for the artisanal style. He was engaging in activities with a distinctly grandmotherly character, you understand? Sartori informs me.

Chait, in Italy to procure cashmere, was directed to Sartori by a mutual acquaintance because to Zegna's proficiency in the material. After a one-and-a-half-hour coffee meeting, Sartori extended an invitation to Chait to visit the brand's headquarters, Oasi Zegna, while Chait was invited to tour The Elder Statesman atelier in Los Angeles. They recognized their shared values and resolved to discuss collaboration a year later.

The Zegna x The Elder Statesman collection is unexpected from Zegna. It presents a vivid array of colors, contrasting with Zegna under Sartori, where the use of colors is more meticulously calibrated and predominantly monochromatic. It possesses a heightened tactile texture reminiscent of the "grandmother aesthetic" for which The Elder Statesman is recognized. What defines Zegna is the exceptional craftsmanship, the luxurious leisurewear look, and the incorporation of Oasi Cashmere throughout the range.

The collaboration between Zegna and The Elder Statesman.

The partnership employs Zegna's traceable Oasi Cashmere.

Sartori asserts that the objective was to achieve meticulous precision on the final line-up. “If we deemed the garment unsuitable for The Elder Statesman or Zegna, we made revisions.” We edited wonderful things, but the aesthetic was very one-sided or overly unconventional,” he elucidates.

The outcome was a collection where each ensemble harmoniously blended Italian craftsmanship and elegance with a relaxed Californian aesthetic.

This being only the third significant partnership by Zegna renders it an anomaly in the industry. Although fashion labels, both large and small, consistently produce notable collaborations each season, Zegna launched its inaugural collaboration—a remarkable one with Fear of God—in 2020. Some may argue that the brand was only tardy to the market, although Sartori never seen a necessity to conform.

“I was quite astonished that Zegna partnered with Fear of God, as it was unprecedented, and I had always perceived that the brand did not require such a collaboration,” I convey to Sartori.

“Do you find it appealing?”

“I thoroughly enjoyed it.” I attempted to purchase an item, but it was out of stock universally.

Sartori continues to receive requests for the production of additional copies of that seminal cooperation. When inquired whether the success of his initial partnership imposed pressure to produce additional work, Sartori promptly refuted the notion. I possess the capability to accomplish much, however I choose not to. "I aspire to pursue actions that align with our brand's integrity, fostering significance and a connection to our endeavors," he states. “We engage in collaborations not for financial gain.” It is imperative that we achieve sales, as failure to do so indicates a lack of delivery. However, they are designed to link diverse populations.

The collaboration between Zegna and The Elder Statesman aims to connect diverse cultures, encompassing the distinct clientele of both companies, while enhancing creative potential through Zegna's superior quality and traceable cashmere. Oasi Cashmere is one of two material sustainability initiatives in which Zegna is now making substantial investments; the other is Oasi Lino, a traceable linen for warmer seasons. Zegna's direct ownership of several Italian fabric mills enables it to oversee textile production from the source, including the provenance of the raw materials. Sartori asserts, "I frequently express that a future generation will emerge that will refuse to purchase garments lacking a digital passport." He compares it to the food business, where manufacturing information is comprehensive and clearly shown on labels.

Before you consider this as Zegna just conforming to the sustainability trend prevalent among fashion brands, it is essential to recognize that the brand's core principles are fundamentally anchored in environmental and community stewardship. The origins date back to 1910 when founder Ermenegildo Zegna planted the inaugural tree in the vicinity of his factory. Approximately 20 years later, he developed a 26-kilometer road to enhance accessibility to Oasi Zegna for the local people and connect them with its natural environment, thereby creating a public space for recreation and outdoor pursuits amidst nature.

Sartori articulates his astonishment that Zegna had not previously discussed Oasi Zegna. “We perceived it as an error that required communication, as it represents the company's genuine and authentic vision.”

In a rare moment during our discussion, Sartori concurs that if there is one aspect the brand should emphasize more prominently, it is this.

For Sartori, it has long been a fundamental principle in his designs. Zegna perceives sustainability as encompassing more than merely the utilization of recycled materials, as evidenced by their #UseTheExisting fabrications derived from recycled sources, rather than solely through ephemeral capsule collections. According to Sartori, it is a mentality that permeates the fundamental structure of a garment. He references the fundamental principles of tailoring: durable, high-quality construction. Every aspect, from the shoulder seams to the construction of the buttonhole, must be designed with durability in mind.

If I created a jacket that deteriorates and fails while travel after three years, I would consider my work inadequate. The objective is for you to don a jacket that, after 15 years, may exhibit a minor hole yet remains entirely functional. “That is my aspiration,” he states.

Sartori refers to this as “designing for sustainability,” emphasizing the necessity of forethought in garment construction to ensure durability and potential recyclability. A jacket made with extensive fusing, for example, would be non-recyclable due to the difficulty of disassembly.

Although seasonality remains evident in Zegna's collections, Sartori does not create designs tailored to each season. The collections have been refined to ensure that concepts surpass seasonal limitations while remaining anchored in a distinct look that he has developed as Zegna's interpretation of contemporary tailoring. It is unapologetically indulgent and casual, featuring essential components like as knitwear, overshirts, chore jackets, the distinctive Triple Stitch sneakers, and ample pants. The aesthetic has remained consistent since the Autumn/Winter 2021 collection, reflecting a development that was already underway but hastened by Covid.

Timelessness resides in consistency. A Zegna garment from one season is not readily relinquished, as there is a smooth connection among items from many seasons. A Zegna garment represents an investment that one would desire to retain and utilize for an extended duration. Sartori persistently facilitates that process.

Sartori may indeed be an enthusiast of Formula One racing. The velocity and the auditory stimuli (he remains undisturbed by the rushing vehicles underneath us, perceptible towards the conclusion of our interview) may exhilarate him. At his essence, he does not endorse unnecessary haste; rather, he is a composed, tranquil force that advances with purpose.