Dolce&Gabbana FW26: The Extreme Art of Resisting Change

Amid the perpetual identity crisis caused by the cyclical turnover of creative directors in fashion, Dolce&Gabbana FW26 provides the reassurance of a consistent message, however somewhat provocative.

We are presently entrenched in an era where fashion venerates moderation and compensates irony akin to a participation trophy. "Newness" has shifted from innovation to a reward, a communal acknowledgement transmitted from one individual to another, rendering creativity seemingly sanctioned by the algorithm. Within that ecology, Dolce&Gabbana can be readily dismissed as "cheugy," lacking sophistication, or even inelegant. Nevertheless, the brand has never attempted a subtle rebranding or concealed its intentions. From the outset, the DNA has stayed unchanged: intensely sensual, profoundly Sicilian, and completely beyond the confines of Parisian "good taste."

Dolce&Gabbana has never pursued the "cleverness" that garners acclaim from Cathy Horyn. Season after season, the notion recurs: meticulous tailoring, romantic silhouettes, and figures idealised to the point of tension. These garments are specifically crafted to enhance the appearance of the user – a notably unconventional idea in an industry fixated with deconstruction. It is the identical frequency Madonna attuned to in the 1990s, and what continues to disturb critics is not that Dolce appears "out of sync," but that the formula has persisted (unaltered) for three decades. The brand is not establishing global boutiques for mere amusement; they are doing so because the garments are commercially viable.

A Dolce&Gabbana ready-to-wear collection indeed lacks the innovation we have come to expect. The Dolce&Gabbana FW26 men’s presentation, which premiered yesterday, presented the same themes observed in 2016, 2006, and 1996. You could accurately anticipate the precise moment a boldly tailored tuxedo adorned with an embroidered brooch would debut on the runway, achieving a success rate of 100%. Amidst a multitude of brands prioritising superficial novelty, this absence of adaptation should not be regarded as a failure, but rather as a demonstration of strength.

The particular dialectic between individualism and contradiction underpinned the Dolce&Gabbana FW26 collection, characterised by offers that were refined and reaffirmed rather than reimagined. The collection, composed of a succession of male portraits, defied a specific conception of masculinity. There is no singular method to embody masculinity. Lack of a cohesive thesis to adhere to. Models ascended from the audience, emphasising the notion: a direct encounter between two designers unafraid to assert their convictions.

The refined sophistication of tuxedos and polished black tailoring, accentuated by cummerbunds juxtaposed with denim, is both opulent and audacious in eveningwear, while remaining formal and deliberately subversive in tailoring. Formal attire clashed with extravagant summer flamboyance. The tuxedo was positioned beside to outfits inspired by Cristiano Ronaldo. Refinement intersected with Dolce's vulgarity in every ensemble of the Dolce&Gabbana FW26 men's collection.

Customers at Dolce seek an enhanced version of themselves through the apparel, rather than a revolutionary change in the business. They want evidence that Italian craftsmanship can still metamorphose an individual into something transcendent. These garments are designed for significant events in our lives: a supper, a late night, a meaningful occasion. Wasn't that the original purpose of fashion before it evolved into a mood board?

Although we present an evolved image of ourselves that transcends conventional beauty, the reality is that we still require garments that are audacious, established, and slightly provocative (For instance, refer to the looks from the new collection below as evidence). While our preferences may have become more subdued and introspective, Dolce&Gabbana emphasises that indulgence need not be concealed. During the Dolce&Gabbana FW26 show, the models exhibited a robust demeanour. The garments embody desire. They see a world where beauty remains significant and attire holds importance, rather than only serving as a "fit check" for an 18-year-old's Instagram Stories.

Fashion frequently overlooks this. Much of contemporary design is intended to convey “awareness” (we recognise this obscure Belgian designer) rather than genuine presence (guilty). Fifty percent of the inventory at Dover Street Market appears to be crafted for visibility rather than practicality. Confidence has become contingent, recognised solely upon internal validation by a certain community.

We should now acknowledge that not everything requires innovation to be deemed valid. We observed this in Duran Lantink’s inaugural presentation for Jean Paul Gaultier – what a disappointment it proved to be. The recurrence of codes at Dolce is not indicative of a lack of creativity; rather, it reflects a steadfast commitment to the established language despite the evolving demands of contemporary trends. Such allegiance is perilous, yet it provides a clarity that is becoming increasingly uncommon.

Ultimately, sophistication extends beyond ambivalence. There is an understated radicalism in maintaining a belief in beauty despite the industry's insistence on transcending it. The genuine discomfort elicited by Dolce&Gabbana is evident. It is not that it is "excessive," but rather that it implies the remainder of fashion has become overly cautious, excessively sardonic, and devoid of substance. As the "meta" commentary diminishes, beauty tends to reemerge. Not in a discreet manner. Not with modesty. However, with great intensity. Dolce&Gabbana has been anticipating our self-reflection all along.