The Unapologetic Masculinity of Frederic Malle’s Uncut Gem

Uncut Gem by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, featuring the return of previous partner Maurice Roucel, is a fragrance inspired by Roucel's individual delights.

In recent years, the role of a perfumer, whether as the principal creator for a House or as a member of a conglomerate, has grown increasingly vague. The task entails the obligation of launching a fragrance, and in some instances, constructing a surrounding narrative that encompasses visual merchandising and advertising campaigns. It aims to remain true to the brand's essence while reinterpreting the significance of the olfactory landscape in contemporary context. It comprises equal measures of discussion and direction, the influences that dictate a fragrance's success.

Success, meanwhile, constitutes but a minor concern for Maurice Roucel, whose career extends over fifty years. Indeed, his oeuvre, comprising over 150 fragrances, has achieved notable success (having previously developed Dans Tes Bras and Musc Ravegeur for Frédéric Malle), and he hails from the pinnacle of Haute-Parfumerie (having served as a chemist at Chanel for six years); however, Roucel is primarily focused on the conceptualization of a fragrance.

He is eager to discuss its eroticism (“The women ignite a fire over the brazier and position themselves above the smoke, allowing it to permeate their intimate areas.”) or eloquently expound about quotations that define an exceptional perfumer (“Only the artist perceives creation; he creates as he breathes.”) However, he is reluctant to discuss a scent creation brief that involves a compromise from either party.

Following a five-year period of persuasion, Frédéric Malle conveyed to Roucel a brief characterized by respect and esteem: it was to be “an almost-too-obvious, in-your-face cologne” that closely mirrored the fragrance Roucel had crafted for his personal use. It should resemble an unrefined jewel; jagged in form and steadfast in its composition. All Malle needed to do was to apply a little refinement that renders his eponymous perfumes exceptionally sophisticated.

“He appears unrefined at first glance, but this is a conscious decision!” He is a formidable presence: exceptionally sophisticated academically and imbued with humor and affection for others. While others also perceived his pleasant aroma, I alone collaborated with him to transform the fragrance from a rudimentary concept into a polished creation. I am honored as it is autobiographical and personal. Malle states.

Expertly crafted and exuding a self-assured, expansive presence, Frédéric Malle’s Uncut Gem commences with a burst of fresh ginger, harmonizing with the distinct spicy top notes of ginger, bergamot, and nutmeg. It then evolves into a hallmark of Roucel: a leathery accord, an excess of ambroxonide (a synthetic substitute for ambergris that, when employed in minimal amounts by inferior perfumers, can become unpleasant), and an animal musk that resonates on the skin.

It possesses a direct allure while acknowledging the underlying reasons for wearing scents. We don it to create a striking initial impression, aiming for it to leave a fragrant mark on those we encounter; at times, the scent itself conveys the message.