Cartier Unveils the Tank Must Collection, Merging Two Timeless Icons
- Bryan Kang
- Sep 24, 2024
- 3 min read
Cartier Tank Watch Essential viewing in steel including Solarbeat movement and a non-animal strap.

At Watches & Wonders 2021, Cartier unveiled the Tank Must with its other highly acclaimed innovations. The amalgamation of Cartier’s two timeless symbols has produced a revitalized line that validates its vision and status as one of the globe’s most esteemed watchmakers.
A JOURNEY THROUGH NOSTALGIA
Following the remarkable success of Cartier's inaugural wristwatch, the square-shaped Cartier Santos in 1904, Louis Cartier conceived another timepiece in 1917 that diverged from the conventional rounded designs of the era. The design was based on two parallel brancards that, when observed from above, resembled the treads of a combat vehicle. The watch casing naturally assumed the role of the turret, so acquiring the legendary designation of Tank.
Les Must de Cartier, conversely, was introduced during the turmoil of the Quartz crisis by Robert Hocq and Alain-Dominique Perrin in the 1970s for the sake of survival. The Les Must de Cartier, devoid of precious metals, was developed for a broader demographic and facilitated the extensive dissemination of the Cartier brand. It exemplified marketing excellence, since Les Must de Cartier translates from French to "these Cartiers are essential."

Cartier Unveils the Tank Must Collection, Merging Two Timeless Icons
ENVIRONMENTALLY SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS
The new Tank Must collection by Cartier merges iconic design with timeless sensibilities for the future. The Tank Must brancards, inspired by the Tank Louis Cartier collection, has rounded edges that provide a seductive allure while preserving Cartier's hallmark elements, such the pearled cabochon winding crown, Roman numbers, and minute train tracks. Significantly, the Cartier Design Studio acknowledges the necessity for measures to ensure Earth's sustainability and reiterates Cartier's dedication to environmental stewardship and sustainability.
Cartier introduces two improvements for the Tank Must: a solar-powered mechanism and a watch strap devoid of animal products. A proprietary SolarBeat movement, developed over two years, enables the dial to capture solar energy, facilitating an average operational lifespan of 16 years for the watch. Photovoltaic cells concealed beneath subtle and imperceptible perforations on the Roman numerals let the technology to integrate smoothly into the Tank Must without compromising its aesthetic appeal.
The reengineered strap consists of 40% plant material derived from waste generated by apples cultivated for the food sector in Switzerland, Germany, and Italy. This diminishes Cartier's carbon footprint by as much as sixfold, conserving up to 10 liters of water and seven megajoules of energy (roughly equivalent to 200 smartphone charges) in comparison to the production of calf straps.
The new Tank Must also commemorates the emergence of gender-neutral timepieces, including designs that transcend conventional gender norms. Sizes are available from extra-large to tiny, accommodating diverse preferences across all genders.

Cartier Tank Watch Essential to see in steel with colored lacquered dials, high-autonomy quartz movement, and alligator leather band.
A TRIBUTE TO THE MONOCHROMES
Recognizing the significance of the Must de Cartier, Cartier unveils a trio of Tank Must Watches featuring lacquered dials that honor the distinctive vermeil editions of the Must de Cartier from 1977. The Les Must de Cartier, featuring a burgundy or all-black dial and a prominent gold emblem, transcended conventional watchmaking norms in favor of refined minimalism.
Similarly, the Tank Must extracted Cartier’s Roman numerals and minute rail-tracks, incorporating Cartier’s signature colors of red, blue, and green into the dials, complemented by matching straps for a cohesive chromatic appearance. This collection is powered by a high-efficiency quartz movement with a lifespan of up to eight years.
In addition to the SolarBeat and monochromatic versions, the Tank Must line features timepieces equipped with either Cartier’s own automatic movement or high-efficiency quartz movement, housed in stainless steel or diamond-set stainless steel cases.










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