Bianchet’s B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon Redefines Featherweight Watchmaking

Blending exceptional thinness and lightness with intricate mechanics and a boldly athletic aesthetic.

Established in 2021, Bianchet is a nascent independent company located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, focussing in contemporary tonneau-shaped watches that integrate sophisticated materials with architectural mechanics. The brand's designs are based on the Golden Ratio (1.618), which affects the proportions of its casings, bridges, and rotors. The previous year's model B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon featured a monobloc carbon case combined with a fully integrated carbon bracelet. This represented the inaugural instance of an independent brand accomplishing such a design in a tonneau sports watch. We got the opportunity to experience it directly; here are our observations.

ULTRA-LIGHT, SLIM, AND YET STURDY CASE

The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon boasts a case of 40mm in width, 47.39mm in length, and 8.9mm in thickness, constructed entirely from high-density carbon composite augmented with vulcanised rubber inserts. The case has 500 layers of compacted carbon fibre, each orientated at 45-degree angles to enhance strength and shock resistance. The build is exceptionally durable, which is unexpected for such a lightweight item, featuring shock resistance rated at 5,000G and water resistance up to 50m.

The UltraFino Carbon, at a mere 32 grammes without a strap, is remarkably lightweight, even among titanium products. The overall weight is 62 grammes when equipped with the integrated carbon bracelet, or 52 grammes with the rubber strap. The carbon's distinctive stratified grain imparts an individual organic design to each piece. A coloured rubber gasket, offered in sky blue, red, or white, encircles the case and crown, enhancing the black carbon structure.

SKELETONISED DIAL AND TOURBILLON

The Bianchet UltraFino Carbon features an openworked dial that displays the brand's UT01 automatic flying tourbillon movement. The skeletonised structure exhibits a symmetrical design, with the suspended barrel at 12 o’clock and the tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock. The dial "structure" showcases delicately brushed and sandblasted titanium elements featuring a black PVD finish, along with hand-polished chamfers. The hour and minute hands possess illuminating tips in hues that correspond with the case gasket. Applied hour marks improve readability against the highly technological background.

THE MOTION

The UltraFino Carbon is driven by Bianchet’s own Calibre UT01, an automatic, ultra-slim flying tourbillon movement. With a thickness of 3.85mm and a weight of merely 8 grammes, it ranks among the lightest automated tourbillons in production today. The movement, fully composed of titanium, includes a previously noted suspended mainspring barrel and a one-minute tourbillon with a 2.66mm cage. It functions at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 60-hour power reserve.

The gold rotor, influenced by Fibonacci spirals, rotates bidirectionally while preserving peripheral equilibrium to mitigate shocks. The finishing is of superior quality, with black PVD-coated bridges with sandblasted and satin-brushed textures, alongside polished bevels observable on both the dial side and the reverse.

THE SPECIFICS

The watch is accompanied by a high-density carbon band secured with a titanium folding buckle, providing both lightness and structural integrity, as well as a natural vulcanised rubber strap in a hue that complements the case gasket, also featuring a titanium folding buckle. Both possess a rapid-release mechanism. The connection of the case and bracelet is seamless, contributing to the flowing tonneau profile characteristic of the UltraFino design.

The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon is offered with a five-year warranty and is priced at CHF 65,500, minus taxes. Subjectively, a substantial amount of money, although not excessively extravagant for a tourbillon watch constructed totally of carbon. For additional information, kindly visit www.bianchet.com.