A New Independent Chapter Begins With Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant

Fusing engineering, narrative, and kinetic expression, the debut watch positions itself as both concept and creation.

Stéphane Pierre

A new indie brand has emerged in the area. Stéphane Pierre emerges in the independent watchmaker arena with a compelling personal narrative and ambition. Residing in Annecy and educated as a micro-mechanical engineer, he possesses a foundation influenced by conventional watchmaking and the rigorous conditions of the navy and military sectors, having dedicated several years to the submarine business. His inaugural timepiece, L’Impétrant, was created in collaboration with prototypist Julien Tixier and approximately 30 additional specialists (whose names are acknowledged by Stéphane Pierre in accordance with tradition and enumerated at the conclusion), is designed as an object where mechanics are not concealed but rather showcased, nearly theatrically. The initial model is named the “Impétrant,” referencing Stéphane Pierre’s previous employment and signifying a “young submariner assigned to a team but not yet fully integrated into the group.” Integration required the demonstration of both technical and interpersonal competencies: respect and humility. Let us ascertain whether the watch adheres to the specifications.

The Stéphane Pierre L’Impétrant case is constructed from Grade 23 titanium, featuring polished concave surfaces and satin-brushed finishes. It has a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 10.8mm, or 12.2mm including the sapphire crystal. The construction comprises 27 components, featuring lugs fabricated as distinct elements that are assembled around a core unit. A restricted "souscription" series of 15 pieces features a blend of zirconium and rose gold, preceding the 50-piece titanium production series.

Stéphane Pierre

The dial-side is intricately designed, with a double retrograde mechanism for the display of hours and minutes. Two 20mm rose-gold treated titanium hands with polished bevels were designed to endure repeated shocks from the retrograde mechanism. They traverse the arched white porcelain scales functioning as subdials, then returning to zero in a synchronised movement. The minutes complete their cycle every 60 minutes, causing the hour hand to advance, resulting in a synchronised retrograde reset every 12 hours. At 6 o’clock, the prominent 11.5mm balance wheel featuring a classic Breguet overcoil is a central element, raised and intentionally visible.

The timepiece is driven by a movement created in-house, exclusively for this initiative. The movement with ruthenium-treated bridges and a rose gold-toned barrel operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour. It provides a 70-hour power reserve, signified by a vertical red sapphire cone visible from the front and a hand located on the reverse side. Additionally, the reverse features minuscule seconds denoted by a heat-blued steel hand on a ring with inscriptions and numerals. The movement incorporates a Maltese cross stop mechanism to maintain precision at the extremities of the mainspring's torque curve, ensuring consistent performance by preventing both over-winding and the low-energy phase at the end of the power reserve. The watch features a combination of frosted surfaces, hand-polished bevels, linear brushing, and traditional ornamental techniques, including berçage (rounded-edge polishing).

The Stéphane Pierre L’Impétrant features a calf leather strap accompanied by a titanium clasp. The inaugural subscription series is confined to 15 units, succeeded by a production batch of 50 titanium variants. The cost for this specialised, collector-oriented, autonomous work is CHF 84,000 excluding taxes. Visit stephanepierre.com for more information.