The RRCHF Flyback Chronograph Balances Tradition and Individuality

Through refined construction and expressive detailing, the watch offers a fresh voice within classical horology.

Rexhep Rexhepi

Since its introduction in 2012 under the Akrivia brand, the AK-01 has garnered remarkable acclaim for Rexhep Rexhepi, as demonstrated by the auction prices of his timepieces. However, it has been some time since we have observed a new model from the emerging independent watchmaker, the most recent being the Chronomètre Contemporain RRCC II in 2022 and a notable cooperation with Louis Vuitton in 2023. Considering the magnitude of orders and outstanding backorders, the introduction of new models during continuing delivery is likely to be both complex and potentially difficult for collectors to comprehend. Consequently, the anticipation has concluded. Rexhep Rexhepi has addressed the production of one of the most iconic complications: the chronograph, whose development is an exceptionally technological achievement. A visit to his workshop in the historic district of Geneva let us to explore his exquisite RRCHF – Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback – a mechanically traditional masterpiece characterised by exceptional craftsmanship and a distinctive character.

Anticipations are inherently elevated with a new Rexhep Rexhepi timepiece, particularly when it emphasises a complexity like the chronograph. One anticipates a timepiece that adheres to the principles of haute horlogerie while exhibiting individuality, rather than merely another ornately embellished traditional chronograph. The new RRCHF Chronograph Flyback is undeniably distinctive and exquisitely crafted.

Rexhep Rexhepi

We will thoroughly examine the internal mechanisms; but, prior to that, let us discuss the watch's design briefly. At first glance, the RRCHF is notably impressive because of its distinctive dial arrangement. The emphasis is on the chronograph features, with the hours and minutes assigned to a secondary, off-centre subdial at 12 o’clock. The slender, large chronograph second hand is prominent, while the tiny seconds and chronograph minute counter provide contrast within the pyramidal dial configuration. The application of coloured sapphire for the sub-dials provides insight into the complexities of the movement. The RRCHF is available in two variants, both innovative amalgamations for Rexhep Rexhepi. The first timepiece features a unique green/blue enamel within a platinum casing, whereas the second possesses a black enamel dial encased in rose gold. The inscriptions and digits on the dial reflect the aesthetic of the RRCC and RRCC II. In preserving the same emphasis on balance and symmetry, the caption "Hgers à Genève" has been incorporated (Horlogers à Genève, Watchmakers in Geneva in French). Finally, the meticulously crafted, tiered, handmade steel hands further augment the watch's uniqueness.

The 38.8mm case, available either platinum or rose gold, is exquisite. It showcases a stepped bezel, rounded rectangular pushers, and elongated curving lugs, evoking the designs of the late Jean-Pierre Hagmann, the esteemed casemaker who reemerged with Akrivia in 2019, prior to his passing last year. The movement's cohesive design ensures that the crown and pushers are impeccably aligned, establishing a sense of equilibrium in the watch's appearance. This sub-10mm chronograph is unobtrusive on the wrist and offers comfort due to its bassiné caseback and sloping lugs.

A NOVEL AND EXCEPTIONAL IN-HOUSE CALIBRE

The initial aspect that captures attention regarding the RRCHF's business aspect is the unique architecture of the hand-wound movement. The symmetrical architecture, characteristic of Rexhep Rexhepi, evokes the RRCC and RRCC II, as well as the distinctive Chronomètre Antimagnétique, rendering it unlike any other chronograph. From top to bottom, there is a substantial single barrel providing a 72-hour power reserve, the chronograph mechanism, the gear train, and a sizable balance wheel supported by a transverse bridge. This symmetry is also reflected across the opposing axis, specifically with the chronograph minute wheel (noted for its distinctive toothing) on the left and the seconds wheel on the right.

The technological foundation features traditional elements, including a horizontal clutch and a column wheel, the latter largely obscured within a secondary layer of the movement adjacent to the minute wheel. The substantial screw balance incorporates a Phillips curve and oscillates at 21,600 vibrations per hour. The click spring generates a gratifying sound during the winding of the watch.

Rexhep Rexhepi consistently delivers exceptional finishing, characterised by impressive, massive, and profound Geneva stripes that evoke a remarkable feeling of depth. The bevelling, especially on the acute internal angles, is expertly performed. The elaborate central bridge, featuring a mirror-polished finish and Geneva stripes, is visually stunning. This exceptional combination of decoration consists of two separate components fastened together. One in steel and one in nickel silver. Additionally, all the diamonds in the steel components are mounted in a chaton, which is necessary for technical reasons, since a softer metal is required to secure them without the risk of fracturing.

The majority of the RRCHF components are produced in-house using traditional methods: the case, enamel dial, movement, and its components, including the hand-sewn nubuck leather strap. Most parts are manufactured near the brand's headquarters, with nearly all ateliers situated on the same street in Geneva. The cost of the Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF Chronograph Flyback is CHF 150,000 for both the gold and platinum editions. Rexhep Rexhepi's manufacturing is confidential, totalling approximately 50 timepieces annually; thus, availability is limited and subject to allocations. For further information, kindly visit rexheprexhepi.com.