Zenith CEO Julien Tornare Discusses the Brand's Internal Operations

It requires audacity to navigate the precarious boundary of possibility in horology, and that is precisely what Zenith has been undertaking for several years. To be honest, it has been almost two years; yet, Zenith is a watchmaking brand characterized by its complexity, reminiscent of a well-known Facebook status.

Recently, the manufacturer pledged a transformation in mechanical watchmaking, a frequent occurrence in Swiss horology. Zenith embraced an audacious credo under the charismatic leadership of Jean-Claude Biver: the future of tradition.

Numerous watchmaker manufacturers assert their prowess, although the majority discreetly retreat from the limelight. Zenith fulfilled its motto and commitments by introducing the first innovative mechanical escapement since Christiaan Huygens invented the balance spring in the 17th century.

At the forefront is CEO Julien Tornare, a figure we have encountered multiple times since his succession of Biver in 2017.

Concerning the slogan, Zenith has frequently contemplated the future of horology; an illustrative instance is Charlie Vermot concealing the El Primero machinery as a demonstration of visionary thinking. In what manner does Zenith evoke awareness of this distinctive heritage?

information is essential to present information in a manner that allows for experiential engagement, like to our exposition, as one would observe at our manufacturing facility in Le Locle, Switzerland. You can perceive the past, the present, and the future! In 2018, I had the fortune of convening with eight individuals who contributed to the El Primero; the youngest was born in 1945, while the oldest was born in 1933.

They recounted numerous narratives on the inception of the movement and their experiences at Zenith during that period. Even then, they have a start-up ethos. I recognized that they possessed the essence of invention and creativity at that time.

Today, we are demonstrating the Defy 21 and the Inventor to illustrate our commitment to innovation and creativity. Our aim is informed not solely by our history, as merely reiterating the past would constitute an error. It is because individuals currently seek a dynamic product. It is imperative to recognize that the audience seeks novelty.

—

Today, the Zenith Inventor features the remarkable Zenith Oscillator.

We must nourish the industry to advance progress. The new generation seeks to purchase timepieces from innovative brands. I firmly contend that millennials do not desire the same watches as their parents; if they did, they would choose for vintage timepieces, but that is a separate matter.

They desire timepieces built in the 21st century for contemporary use.

—

Referring to your previous statement regarding entrepreneurship, is this observable in the 21st-century Zenith manufacturing sector?

Indeed, mere verbal acknowledgment is insufficient. It is essential to instill the entrepreneurial ethos throughout the organization. Merely articulating it through watches is insufficient; one cannot attain the entrepreneurial spirit solely by producing timepieces for the 21st century. We endeavor to adopt a comprehensive approach to innovation.

Upon my assumption of leadership in 2017, I informed my staff that to qualify for their bonuses, irrespective of the company's performance, they must demonstrate the implementation of five creative ideas. This pertains to finance, human resources, and all other domains. This exemplifies our use of the entrepreneurial spirit throughout the organization to effectuate change.

An instance of this is when we inaugurated public visits to the manufacturing facility — we were the pioneers in this endeavor. Another facet is the collaboration with Bamford — we were the inaugural entity to formalize it.

I coordinate monthly breakfast meetings for individuals celebrating their birthdays throughout that month, inviting them to bring new ideas and suggestions for improvement. All these factors advance our progression towards being an entrepreneurial enterprise.

We have not yet arrived at that point; Swiss individuals are renowned for their resistance to change and their somewhat deliberate pace. I assert this due to my Swiss nationality. laughter We have undoubtedly made significant progress since my arrival.

—

You already indicated a desire to decrease the quantity of references (SKUs) in the assortment. What is the status of that endeavor?

Upon my arrival, we had 178 SKUs, a reduction from 850 during the pre-Great Recession period under CEO Thierry Nataf. I aim to reduce it to 100, and we are about at that point.

—

Do you believe there is a singular optimal path for a company such as Zenith?

No, I do not believe so; it is contingent upon the nature of the company, of course. I am convinced that if one possesses history, it is imperative to build upon it. It is essential to reflect on your identity and past actions.

Authenticity is paramount. It is erroneous to assume that the contemporary younger age is solely preoccupied with celebrity, marketing, and similar pursuits. No, individuals seek to comprehend the essence of the brand; they desire to ascertain whether the pricing is justified due to their sensitivity to this matter. We must maintain authenticity. I take great pride in stating that all of our watches are equipped with Zenith manufactured movements, and I believe we should enhance our communication regarding this fact. Only a handful of brands in the entire business can make that claim.

Conversely, in relation to history and fidelity to it, possessing a historical background does not necessitate its repetition. It is essential to articulate oneself in a modern manner, not only regarding the timepieces but also concerning the firm, as I previously mentioned.

This occurrence is infrequent in Swiss watchmaking, as there exist two factions: those who adhere closely to their heritage, reconstructing their histories, and those who are apprehensive of progressing beyond their past. Subsequently, there exist fresh brands devoid of such historical context, allowing them to engage in any audacious endeavors they like. I fail to understand why Zenith cannot accomplish both objectives, especially considering that it already integrates heritage models like the A384 with the avant-garde Defy 21.

—

Has Zenith identified collectors who have transitioned from mere appreciation of the brand to a desire to purchase the watches?

I cannot assert that we have completed the entire task of engaging collectors to purchase Zenith watches; we have accomplished only a portion of it. The firm is expanding, as evidenced by the data, and we are receiving substantial good comments. We are proceeding in the correct direction.

Jean-Claude Biver, renowned for numerous accomplishments, lacks patience—he himself advised me to exercise patience, as it took him a decade to establish Hublot's current standing. Each day, I concentrate on executing the appropriate actions to achieve our desired objectives.

It would be presumptuous to declare mission completed, however I sense we are progressing in the correct path.

—

Today, we are witnessing an unprecedented demand for specific steel sports timepieces. In what manner do these trends reflect genuine shifts in individuals' preferences for watches?

A move towards contemporary styling is evident. Brands featuring heritage styling alongside a more contemporary design are witnessing the latter's increasing market dominance. The broader market concurs, as I recently encountered an astute vendor who informed me that the craze for vintage timepieces has already concluded; fortunately, we possess Defy! Certainly, our Pilot's watches remain old, need more refinement. It is essential to demonstrate our commitment to contemporary styling.