Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, on the brand's legacy.

Nicholas Biebuyck, legacy Director of TAG Heuer, provides an in-depth exploration of TAG Heuer's illustrious legacy.

Nicholas Biebuyck

I wish to commence with a more personal matter. What is your most cherished personal association with TAG Heuer?

I was raised in a quite humble environment. My father had a passion for motorsport, although we had the financial means to attend races weekly; instead, we would prepare sandwiches and travel to Silverstone, Brands Hatch, or Goodwood. One year, we attended Le Mans, where I vividly recall observing old Formula One and racing vehicles circulating the track adorned with a red shield emblem.

My fascination with it led to an interest in watchmaking, which inevitably drew me to the TAG Heuer brand, and it resonated with me. A significant correlation existed between my actions at the age of seven. It is remarkable that this seed, sown in my youth, has developed into this fervor. It fostered a fervor within me, propelling me to my current position.

As the heritage director for TAG Heuer, could you elucidate the responsibilities associated with that position?

Several distinct aspects exist. Initially, we must safeguard the company's essence and history, akin to physical artifacts that we oversee and evaluate, which embody it. We possess approximately 3,000 timepieces, 100,000 paper artifacts constituting our records, and an additional 1,000 things like racing overalls, helmets, timers, and desk clocks.

Secondly, there exists the scholarly examination of those materials, which entails investigation. In 1982, we lost our factory records during the quartz crisis, necessitating extensive efforts to reverse-engineer that data.

The subsequent step involves disseminating them globally. Our museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds will undergo refurbishment and modernization. International exhibitions provide an opportunity to showcase these watches and enhance public comprehension and research in this domain.

Finally, there is the examination of the narrative techniques employed for our modern products. We guarantee that the inspirations are authentic and genuine whenever we launch a new watch and establish a cohesive narrative. I facilitate press briefings, counsel journalists on story composition, and assist the product team in launching new watches.

Your prior positions at Bonhams and Christie’s establish you as an authority in historic watches. Do you remember your response upon first viewing TAG Heuer’s archival and heritage documents?

I was fortunate to see them prior to my employment. In 2016, while at Christie’s, I was introduced to the former heritage director of TAG Heuer, who transitioned from outside the watch industry, and I was presented as an aficionado of Heuer and TAG Heuer. She extended an invitation for me to visit the TAG Heuer museum later and granted me access to the archives due to her trust while she attended meetings.

It is quite remarkable to observe the watches, as we own numerous physical timepieces despite lacking paper records. Examining these relics reveals significant insights into the design evolution of a certain product. That was, for me, the primary insight. We possess a wealth of knowledge to impart to the world.

You recognized notable and consequential timepieces in your prior roles. Could you provide insights into significant items within TAG Heuer’s archives?

This can be viewed in terms of its contribution to our current storyline, specifically the initial iteration of the Carrera, the reference 2447, along with early references like the 3647 and 7753. Additionally, for me, it is the 1158 CHN gold Carrera, a favored timepiece of Jack Heuer. This watch is among my favorites because to its association with prominent drivers of the 1970s, who wore it with distinction, and its status as a great presentation piece. Additional items comprise the inaugural generation Monaco 1133B, the original Formula 1 from 1986, early Autavias, and the Mikrograph, the first mechanical stopwatch capable of measuring 1/100th of a second. While there are numerous items, I believe there are likely 10 to 15 pieces that are emblematic of our brand.

Given its 162-year heritage, what ideas or values does TAG Heuer prioritize today?

I frequently discuss two primary pillars. This is a breakthrough in lasting and dependable timekeeping. The origin can be traced to the hermetically sealed pocket watch cases of the 1890s, for which we held the patent. Examine the Mikrograph, the inaugural mechanical stopwatch with a precision of 1/100th of a second, the automatic chronograph calibre 11 introduced in 1969, and the Mikrotimer, the first electronic timing apparatus capable of measuring 1/1000th of a second that we manufactured. These developments, which contribute to the enhancement of our goods, are essential to us.

I frequently discuss our egalitarian ethos. We originate from the Vallée, not from Geneva. Our focus is not on high-end fine watchmaking, but rather on incorporating genuine practicality and functionality into the timepiece.

Our initial motions lack refinement, yet they are unequivocally precise. We undertake all possible measures to enhance the watch's performance. This results in a product predominantly encased in stainless steel due to its superior strength. It enhances accessibility to a broader market. We do not maintain a waitlist for our items; you may enter our stores and purchase an Aquaracer, which you can wear for two decades and be exceedingly satisfied with.

Which TAG Heuer collection would you recommend as an ideal entry point for anyone unfamiliar with timepieces or TAG Heuer?

The evident choice is TAG Heuer Formula One, as it is the most accessible option and effectively introduces our brand identity, while also linking us to motorsport. The Carrera is likely the most authentic starting point for me, as it embodies significant values for our company. The 2447, the inaugural generation of the Carrera, serves as our link to Jack Heuer.

The connection to comprehending the potential configuration of a model range has evolved in numerous aspects nowadays. We possess the limited edition Porsche models, including the tourbillon and the plasma, which serve as significant avant-garde icons advancing new technology in lab-grown diamonds.