Hublot at Watches & Wonders 2024: Sapphire Timepieces Take Center Stage

Upon observing Hublot's recent innovations, one would envision a sequence of audacious experiments occurring within the brand's factory in Nyon.

That is accurate to some degree; nevertheless, be assured that nothing resembles what is depicted in Dexter’s Laboratory. Although "crazy" is a colloquial phrase employed by the general public, "pushing boundaries" would be a more discerning expression of that concept. Although Hublot commenced the year robustly with their LVMH Watch Week presentation, they demonstrated that concluding with vigor is vital in the current horological landscape, and indeed, they elevated their performance significantly at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024.

Participating in two prominent watch fairs was a significant challenge for Hublot. This necessitated the readiness of several flagship inventions; yet, after observing the launches in Geneva, it is evident that Hublot was thoroughly prepared across all sectors. Sapphire once again assumes a prominent role at Hublot, having mastered the art of chromatic (or achromatic, as will be demonstrated subsequently) transformation.

The initial model is the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14-Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire. It is undoubtedly verbose, yet the essential insights are encapsulated in the final three words: Aquamarine Sapphire. Although the MP-11 is not a novel creation for Hublot, with numerous variations in diverse materials and hues, the pale blue version distinguishes itself among its more vibrant siblings, except the transparent sapphire model. Like all sapphire specimens, each possesses an own chemical composition, incorporating numerous elements meticulously doped to get certain colors and hues, in this case, pale blue. Integrate a high transparency index with painstaking hand polishing; the outcome is a brilliant and luminous masterpiece.

The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14-Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire exhibits formidable mechanical prowess as well. The HUB9011 Manufacture caliber features an impressive 14-day power reserve, facilitated by seven vertically aligned co-axial barrels. Rather than incorporating the barrels inside the movement, Hublot opted to prominently display them by positioning them at a 90° angle on the front side of the calibre. The front sapphire crystal has been uniquely curved, showcasing Hublot's technological expertise in sapphire crystal engineering and manipulation, given its height. Although the movement is manually wound, a supplementary electronic Torx stylus facilitates effortless winding of the watch. A highly useful power reserve indicator located on the far left of the barrels displays the remaining power in days. The time-telling parts are situated on the upper half of the dial, while the regulating components are skillfully relocated at two and four o’clock.

Continuing with sapphire watches, Hublot's notable creation is the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu. Sapphire exemplifies Hublot's "Art of Fusion" philosophy. In this context, Hublot's realm of haute horlogerie integrates effortlessly with Maxime Plescia-Büchi's artistic expression, Sang Bleu. This year's sapphire creation builds upon last year's Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu, which was previously available in Hublot's King Gold, all-black ceramic, and titanium.

“2024 signifies eight years of partnership with Hublot and three iterations: the initial in 2016 with the Big Bang Sang Bleu; the subsequent in 2019 with the Big Bang Sang Bleu II; and ultimately, the Spirit of Big Bang in 2023. Although each design is created using a comparable methodology, adapting the concepts of my tattooing to Hublot's distinct watchmaking domain yields a unique outcome each time, as it is put to a different foundation. This time, we are incorporating the evolution of DNA, represented by the merger of Hublot and Sang Bleu, onto a Hublot hallmark material previously unused in our collaboration: sapphire. This partnership is noteworthy as sapphire is the most esteemed material in the watchmaking industry, imparting an ethereal and futuristic quality, akin to an architectural element, to the pieces. This aligns precisely with my objectives for all my projects,” states Maxime Plescia-Büchi.

Although the design remains unchanged, showcasing a sculpted and multifaceted case composed of interlocking hexagons, rhombuses, and triangles characteristic of Plescia-Büchi's polygonal tattoos, the fabrication of a sapphire case with such intricacy poses a significant challenge for Hublot. Three-dimensional machining and over 100 hours of labor were dedicated to the creation of the crystalline case, with the sole opaque components being the crown, push buttons, and six H-shaped screws on the bezel.

The final outcome is a juxtaposition of softness etched into the rigidity of the sapphire. The purity of the Sang Bleu characteristics, which are distinctly acute and methodical, is visually and physically manifested on the wrist in an ultra-light minimalist design. The Hublot HUB4700 automated chronograph calibre seems to float elegantly within the watch case's expansive transparency. Rather than employing conventional watch hands, uniquely crafted disc hands seamlessly augment the faceted look of the 100-piece limited edition Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire.