Hands-On Spinnaker x/ seconde/ seconde's "Fifty Phantoms" Limited Edition Steely

Assessing the pair's third joint timepiece, which is the first model to feature a metal bracelet.

Spinnaker

With the coming of Halloween, Spinnaker has resurrected a collaborative timepiece with Parisian designer Romaric André, known as /seconde/seconde/. This album represents their third endeavor focused on the "Fifty Phantoms" theme, constituting an intriguing extension of the "phantom" concept introduced in 2023. Spinnaker, recognized for its exceptional inventiveness in collaborative projects, and /seconde/seconde/ once more merge horological craftsmanship with whimsical elegance.

The 2025 Edition presents, for the first time, two separate case dimensions, signifying a significant divergence from the original "Fifty Phantoms" and the 2024 "Phantom Blue" model that I evaluated last year. Collectors can now choose between the tiny Phantom Steel (40mm) and the larger Phantom White (43mm). The 40mm Phantom Steel is fitted with the reliable M-MIY-9015-D3 Japan Automatic caliber and has a case thickness of 12.9mm, while the 43mm Phantom White employs the M-SII-NH35-D3 Japan Automatic caliber and possesses a thickness of 13.9mm. Both have a newly designed sunray-brushed bezel that mimics the phantom aesthetic, accompanied by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The core design philosophy emphasizes spectral mischief, humor, and transforming the dial into a thought-provoking medium. This year's release presents a novel spectral gray dial, exhibiting the unique "phantom" design with many luminous apparitions that glow in the dark, complemented by radiant indices and hands. The small ghost patterns have been reimagined with a more rounded design, while the bezel is a prominent element, now displaying a curvilinear shape that suggests the ethereal, fluid contours of sheet ghosts. This entire steel structure, from bezel to bracelet, with silvery tones on the dial, greatly elevates the ethereal atmosphere. The pointers and numerals on the bezel are also luminous.

Spinnaker

The brand states in their press release, “Hidden surprises lie within” – the ethereal ambiance transcends the watch and dial. An intriguing feature is the supplementary white strap that emits a dazzling glow when exposed to UV radiation. This meticulous attention to detail encompasses both the case and the caseback as well. The rotor, observable through the transparent caseback, is inscribed with tally marks and a pair of eyes; the tally sums precisely 50, reflecting its designation “Fifty Phantoms,” while the rotor itself rotates playfully, obscuring and unveiling the internal mechanisms. Both models provide formidable technological specifications, ensuring a water resistance of 15 ATM. The timepieces feature an enhanced bead-of-rice steel bracelet and include an extra nylon strap.

The selection of 40mm versus 43mm will considerably influence the sensation on the wrist, enabling collectors to choose between a more subdued appearance or a more pronounced, contemporary profile. Although 40mm exceeds the optimal size for my 140mm wrist circumference, the watch appears and feels unexpectedly smaller when worn—an observation I attribute primarily to the steel band rather than the rigid rubber straps from the previous two generations. The new spectral gray display presents a novel interpretation of the phantom effect introduced in the previous blue and black dials. The Phantom Steel (40mm) is priced at $525 USD for the initial batch, however the bigger Phantom White (43mm) is available at a more affordable price of $475 USD. The initial batch has sold out during pre-order, and a subsequent pre-order opportunity will be announced shortly. For further information, monitor Spinnaker’s website.